Basic Crabitat Supplies

Basic Crabitat Supplies Jul 22, 2013 18:51:40 GMT

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Post by Rachel on Jul 22, 2013 18:51:40 GMT

These basic supplies will allow you to build the foundations of a successful crabitat.

The Tank. This can be either glass or a properly converted plastic storage box. The lid needs to be secure as hermit crabs are great escape artists, with ventilation to allow proper air flow. The tank needs to be big, with enough depth for at least 7 inches of substrate, plenty of climbing room, space for decorations etc and general floorspace. Crabs roam for miles in the wild, need plenty of moulting space and generally don't do well in tiny enclosures. Allow at least 20 US gallons or 75L of space for up to four small crabs, with bigger for larger crabs or colonies. Keep in mind it is recommended at jumbo size colonies should be offered at least 100 US gallons!
Substrate. The "dirt" that your crabs live on and moult in, I recommend a mix of playsand and coir at a roughly 5:1 ratio. Playsand is not only cheaper than reptile sand, it is easier to get and definitely safe. Some reptile sands are dyed or otherwise. Coir is expandable bricks of coconut fibre and can be bought as organic gardening soil or from reptile shops. We now sell coir instore.
Heating. This may take the form of a heatmat on the back wall (my preference) or an external heat lamp. Never put mats underneath the tank and NEVER spray water directly onto warm or hot glass as it may crack! If using plastic storage tubs heat mats are a better option and should be monitored or connected to a reptile thermostat. 80F is a good temperature for many species but always check specific requirements.
Thermostat. These are connected to the heat source to monitor the temperatures and switch it off when conditions get too warm. Not used by every keeper but well worth considering, especially if you will be out for long periods or are having issues with the temperatures fluctuating. Buying new is best, many come with good guarantees from the manufacturer.
Thermometer. This allows you to monitor temperatures inside the tank and check it is not too hot or cold. Digital ones with probes are best and easily obtained cheaply. The round dial type ones are usually wildly inaccurate. Generally 28c is a good temperature but check species needs before buying.
Hygrometer. This is used to monitor the ambient humidity in the tank. Humidity is vital to allow the crabs to breathe and having a decent hygrometer will help ensure levels do not drop too low and literally suffocate the crabs. Again, digital are best as the dials are usually very inaccurate and prone to faults. 80% humidity is optimal, too much lower is not good.
Water Conditioner. Used to neutralise chlorine, heavy metals and other issues in tap water which may damage gills. API make a good quality one. Look for a bottle which is free from stress coat and will remove chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals etc.
Marine Salt. A good quality marine salt is needed as land hermit crabs need a dish each of fresh and marine. Proper marine salt accurately replicates all trace elements and minerals found in ocean water to provide everything the crabs need. Instant ocean is the best brand, you can also buy it pre-measured here. Do not use ocean water, it may have pollutants, trash or other issues in it, stick to clean water!
Water bowls. These both need to be deep enough for the largest crab to submerge in, but the smallest needs to be able to escape easily. Pebbles, shells, fake plants, plastic mesh or other safe items can be used to allow for this. Food storage tubs make good options for larger crabs and come in a variety of sizes.

Food bowl/s. Shallow, easy to access bowls that will keep food out the substrate (until the crabs drag it there). At least one, but some keepers like to offer dry and fresh food separately and in larger colonies offering multiple bowls is best to prevent food guarding becoming an issue.

Hides. These, quite simply, are places for the crabs to hide away and feel secure. Coconut shells, plantpots, opaque food tubs, cork bark, reptile specific hides and other products make good options for this. I try to offer at least one for every two or three crabs in my larger colonies.

Branches, fake plants and other decorations. These help the crabs to feel secure (in more open tanks they may feel more vulnerable) and allow them to climb and explore. Most crabs once settled will take full advantage of any climbing opportunities. Oak, birch, maple, cork bark, liana vine, bamboo (true not lucky), driftwood, cholla and mopani are good options. Wood from the wild can be CAREFULLY baked to kill any bugs etc, doused in boiling water or boiled in crab safe salt water to help prevent mold. The crabs will also eat at any natural decorations so only used untreated wood.

Shells. Ideally at least five suitable, unpainted shells should be offered per crab. This allows them to grow smoothly and helps prevent shell fights. Painted shells are not good for a variety of reasons (or ethical for many crabs sold in them, due to the common practice of forcing them to switch).